Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Knitwear Designer: 20th Century Fashion Research

Madame Alix Gres



Formally trained as a sculptress, Madame Gres (born Germaine Emilie Krebs) produced haute couture designs for an array of fashionable women, including the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Jacqueline Kennedy, and Dolores del Rio. Her signature was cut-outs on gowns that made exposed skin part of the design, yet still had a classical, sophisticated feel. She was renowned for being the last of the haute couture houses to establish a ready-to-wear line, which she called a "prostitution". Gres later moved to designing perfumes.


Information gathered from
      http://wikipedia.org/


Silk Jersey, 1945
http://www.nelmondoonline.it/galleria_fotografica.php?id_primopiano=85&immagine_i=8

Silk Jersey, 1955
http://www.nelmondoonline.it/galleria_fotografica.php?id_primopiano=85&immagine_i=8

Image Detail
Silk Jersey, 1944
http://www.kci.or.jp/

Vestido de cerca de 1955
Silk Jersey, 1955
http://www.nelmondoonline.it/galleria_fotografica.php?id_primopiano=85&immagine_i=8

Image Detail
Silk Jersey, 1958
http://www.metmuseum.org/


Silk Jersey, 1955
http://www.burdastyle.com/


Silk Jersey, 1958
www.dublincat.livejournal.com
IMG_9880

Working with extravagantly arranged gowns made of silk jersey in the classical Greek style and few visible seams, Madame Gres became known for her tiny multiple pleats. Her signature silhouette was characterized with asymmetrical draping and an emphasis in Grecian style. Many of the dresses included an empire waist. Madame Gres mastered fabrics such as wool and fine silk jersey. The numerous yards of silk jersey allowed the gown to free-flow while remaining feminine.

Key Gres Look:
  • pleats, created by hand then sewn together
  • lots of folds and drapes
  • bias cut, away from the body
  • Greco-roman influence, togas, capes, wraps, Asian and Eastern influence
I really enjoyed the flow of the gowns. They also look comfortable, yet elegant. The revealing spots on some of the gowns also give it some spice!

Monday, September 12, 2011

Fabric and Trim Online Sourcing

Color Inspiration
Paris, France

Paris street

My inspiration comes from my experiences during my study abroad this past summer. The bright colors enlightened me as I was in the city of blacks and grays. These bright magentas and greens and teals captured me and it's proof that Paris isn't always gloomy, even in the rain...

Cut and Sew Knit Swatches

FW22215C Fuchsia/Silver Solid Jersey Prints         
Mood Fabrics
Fuchsia/Silver Solid Jersey Print 
Lurex, Wool

FR25915C Black/White/Purple/Green Misc Jersey Prints
Mood Fabrics
Black/White/Purple/Green Misc Jersey Print
Lycra, Rayon

FP25579C Warm Purple Solid Knits
Mood Fabrics
Warm Purple Solid Knit
Polyester

Jersey Knit Burnout Hot Pink
Fabric.com
Jersey Knit Burnout Hot Pink
Rayon, Polyester

FP25932C Retro Floral Jersey Prints
Mood Fabrics
Retro Floral Jersey Print
Lycra, Polyester

FM25877 Dark Aqua 15 Solid Jersey Solid
Mood Fabrics
Dark Aqua 15 Solid Jersey Solid
Modal, Spandex

FC22714C Black Misc Jersey Prints
Mood Fabrics
Black Misc Jersey Print
Cotton

FR20339C Smoked Salmon Solid Jersey Solid
Mood Fabrics
Smoked Salmon Solid Jersey Solid
Rayon

FP26094C Blue/Black Swirls Jersey Prints
Mood Fabrics
Blue/Black Swirls Jersey Print
Lycra, Polyester

FR26109C Magenta/Grey/Black Misc Jersey Prints
Mood Fabrics
Magenta/Grey/Black Misc Jersey Print
Rayon, Wool