Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Knitwear Designer: 20th Century Fashion Research

Madame Alix Gres



Formally trained as a sculptress, Madame Gres (born Germaine Emilie Krebs) produced haute couture designs for an array of fashionable women, including the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Jacqueline Kennedy, and Dolores del Rio. Her signature was cut-outs on gowns that made exposed skin part of the design, yet still had a classical, sophisticated feel. She was renowned for being the last of the haute couture houses to establish a ready-to-wear line, which she called a "prostitution". Gres later moved to designing perfumes.


Information gathered from
      http://wikipedia.org/


Silk Jersey, 1945
http://www.nelmondoonline.it/galleria_fotografica.php?id_primopiano=85&immagine_i=8

Silk Jersey, 1955
http://www.nelmondoonline.it/galleria_fotografica.php?id_primopiano=85&immagine_i=8

Image Detail
Silk Jersey, 1944
http://www.kci.or.jp/

Vestido de cerca de 1955
Silk Jersey, 1955
http://www.nelmondoonline.it/galleria_fotografica.php?id_primopiano=85&immagine_i=8

Image Detail
Silk Jersey, 1958
http://www.metmuseum.org/


Silk Jersey, 1955
http://www.burdastyle.com/


Silk Jersey, 1958
www.dublincat.livejournal.com
IMG_9880

Working with extravagantly arranged gowns made of silk jersey in the classical Greek style and few visible seams, Madame Gres became known for her tiny multiple pleats. Her signature silhouette was characterized with asymmetrical draping and an emphasis in Grecian style. Many of the dresses included an empire waist. Madame Gres mastered fabrics such as wool and fine silk jersey. The numerous yards of silk jersey allowed the gown to free-flow while remaining feminine.

Key Gres Look:
  • pleats, created by hand then sewn together
  • lots of folds and drapes
  • bias cut, away from the body
  • Greco-roman influence, togas, capes, wraps, Asian and Eastern influence
I really enjoyed the flow of the gowns. They also look comfortable, yet elegant. The revealing spots on some of the gowns also give it some spice!

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